Fiber Reflections — Hello 2026!

• New Year's Day Cast On. Our first Can't Died in a Cornfield Zoom isn't until the 6th, but I'll be casting on my project on January 1st. I'll be making Susanne Sommer's  Ginny Cardigan, using Lanas Light (heavy fingering/light sportweight) and Aerial (laceweight mohair + silk) held together for a DK gauge.  Mohair + brioche may not be the best idea, but I just finished a black cardigan on black needles in December, so clearly I am willing to throw caution to the wind.
• Gentle resolutions. I used to be MUCH better about recording my projects in Ravelry. When I take time for this, I end up with a good record of what I did, with what, and how much of it. I also have strong feelings about contributing to its user-generated database of information, and I'd like to improve my habits related to that.
• Planning. I am constantly sequencing activities and projects in my mind, and my annual personal planning retreat is one of the highlights of my year. I end up working sixteen hour days while I'm gone, but I love every minute of analyzing the past year, and sketching out what I want the new year to look like. Thanks for your kindness in making it possible for me to do this every January.

If you take a peek below, you'll see that items #1 and #3 factor into Yarn Folk's hours over the next couple of weeks. We are closing early on New Year's Eve, and will be spending New Year's Day at home. Whether I stay open or close for the day, this is always a tough decision for me. But my business neighbors here on Third Ave are closed on the first, and I think it's okay to claim the day for rest and family time. 

Then the following week, I will be out of town January 5-8.  Zay will be staffing the shop from 12-3:30 those four days. There are many things he can gladly help you with, but your toughest questions will be my priority when I am back in the shop on Friday. 

…to inspire

Sweater Math: How much yarn do you need—especially when substituting yarn?

I wanted to take a moment to explain how to calculate yarn requirements, particularly when using a pattern where the designer lists the number of balls of a specific yarn rather than the total yardage (as is common with PetiteKnit patterns).

Your first step is to choose a size. Ideally, the pattern specifies the intended ease—whether positive or negative. Positive ease means your body measurement (usually at the chest) plus the intended ease range. Negative ease means your body measurement minus that ease. Negative ease is typically 0–2”, creating a form-fitting look. Positive ease can reach up to 20”, depending on yarn weight, garment size, and the designer’s intended fit. Award bonus points if the pattern lists the model’s size and the amount of ease they’re wearing.

Once you’ve chosen a size, examine the suggested yarn: what weight is it, and what characteristics does it have? How does that relate to the pattern’s gauge? Do you like how that yarn weight behaves at that gauge? For instance, 24 stitches per 4” is as loose as I’d go with fingering weight yarn. If a pattern calls for 22 stitches per 4”, I’d look to sport or DK weight unless there’s a good reason—like lacework or an intentionally sheer fabric.

Next, find the yardage per ball of the recommended yarn. (Ideally, the pattern provides this. If not, check Ravelry, YarnSub.com, or the yarn manufacturer’s website.) Multiply the number of balls by the yardage per ball to determine the total yardage needed for your size. Then divide that total by the yardage per skein of your substitute yarn. Round up, and that’s how many skeins to buy.

There are plenty of other factors to consider when substituting yarn, but that’s the basic math. If a pattern uses multiple strands held together, you’ll generally need the listed yardage for each strand. However, if you’re substituting a single, thicker yarn for two strands held together, you only need the yardage for one strand—your chosen yarn will do the work of both.